As a chef does with spices, we look to get the best qualities of each hop and create a harmony of flavors and aromas. However, a few years ago, we ran into a hop unique enough to deserve its own moment in the sun. A large Japanese brewery first developed the hop variety Sorachi Ace in 1988. A cross between the British Brewery Gold and Czech Saaz Varieties, it exhibited a quality that was unexpected--it smelled really lemony. The unique flavor of Sorachi ace was bypassed by the big brewers, but we think its pretty cool. Brooklyn Sorachi Ace is a classic saison, a cracklingly dry, hoppy unfiltered golden farmhouse ale, but made entirely with now-rare Sorachi Ace hops grown by a single farm in Oregon. We ferment it with out special Belgian ale strain, and then add more Sorachi Ace hops post fermentation. After the dry hopping, the beet emerges with bright spicy lemon zest aroma backed by a wonderfully clean malt flavor. It tastes like sunshine in a glass, and that suits us just fine, especially with seafood dishes.